027 - sat 27/05/2006 - rotterdam/bruges

we checked out of the grand hotel philadelphia after indulging ourselves with the breakfast buffet. we jumped on board the train and at some point in our journey we crossed the border between the netherlands and belgium, although we couldn't really tell where. after a transfer in antwerp, we arrived in bruges in the eraly afternoon.

we wandered out of the central train station (in truth about fifteen minutes walk from the city centre) and made for the tourist information centre. on the way we crossed a big carnival that had spread itself out across a park, filled with rides, carnival games, the usual. there was one ride filled with kids spinning around while euro techno pop pumped through loud speakers; a man in another language yelled out what we could only assume were the usual semi-excited things that carnival-type guys yell out to try and make an admittedly not hair-raising ride more exciting for the kids. suz turned to me and said 'carnies sound the same in any language.'

we were beginning to realise we'd come to bruges during a particularly busy weekend. with ascension day having come a couple of days earlier, this was undoubtedly a long weekend for many europeans, and bruges is surely a popular weekend getaway destination (or just anytime getaway destination). at the tourist office, after some searching, they found a b&b for us to stay at, 15 minutes walk out of town.

our host actually came and picked us up in his car which was both unexpected and really cool. he was a generous 40-ish bruges native with good english but we never actually got his name so we eventually started referring to him as craig. but not to his face, only behind his back. you have to understand that it was a term of affection, even though i'm not sure what images the name 'craig' conjures for me besides craig mclachlan and of course, dumb street. but craig was great. in the car he gave us a mini tour, suggested restaurants and pubs. he lent us an umbrella. we liked craig.

bruges was packed. there's a great old church right in the middle of town that claims to hold a vial that contains christ's blood. every now and then they get it out and parade it up and down the streets, and catholics with nothing better to do (and presumably some amounts of expendable money) travel from across europe and further away to see it. this had apparently happened a few days ago. the streets were full full full, mostly of dazed tourists, either in the initial throes of awe with such a picturesque old town, or exhausted from many consecutive days of aforementioned awe. and awe can be exhausting.

bruges was so pretty even from craig's car. it would soon come to be described as "crazy pretty" and not by me.

after arriving at the b&b we walked along a canal back into the centre of town. there was a time in the history of europe where canals were the thing. on craig's recommendation we did a canal tour, which again resulted in the taking of lots of photos, many clicks being accompanied with the words "some of these will probably have to be deleted." suz was beginning to feel that there wasn't anywhere you could point the camera and not end up with a good-looking photo. she was right, but gladly we exercised some restraint. the tour guide on the boat rolled his rs like i had never heard before. the rolling became longer and longer throughout the trip, and when he finally asked us to 'enjoy the Rest of our day', it took him fifteen minutes to finish the sentence.

by now it was raining. we were not surprised. craig's umbrella proved to be as useless as the one we had bought in amsterdam. (but we still love you craig.) we found a cafe, partly for shelter and partly because suz was determined to find good waffles in bruges - how could you not find good waffles in belgium? this was not the first time she would be disappointed.

back out into the rain, we stumbled around looking for an internet cafe, but eventually the rain beat us down and we found solace in a bar. the overpriced red wine, whilst shitty, cheered us up. we walked home via the markt square which was beautiful (and still crowded) at dusk.

click here to see photos from this day